Black Diamond NOW

Landsburg Headworks Circa 1899

In an earlier post, I focused on Taylor - A Mining Town Condemned.  Though once a thriving community of nearly 1,000, concern existed that coal and clay mining in the area was contaminating the Cedar River and the City of Seattle's principal water supply source.  Located just a few miles south of Taylor between Hobart and Ravensdale is Landsburg where the diversion dam, an intake canal, settling basin and gatehouse were built across the Cedar River in 1899 to supply Seattle's growing water needs.  This turned out to be quite a public works project as can be seen in the following photos.

Photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, WWDL0568, Anders Beer Wilse, cira 1899

The above photo shows the headworks under construction.

Photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, WWDL0541, Anders Beer Wilse, circa 1899

The above photo shows the intake diversion dam underconstruction.  The two holes you see in the brick structure divert flow into pipe that ultimately extends the 29 miles to Seattle.

Photo courtesty of Museum of History & Industry, SHS8670, circa 1930

Additional expansion occurred in 1930, further increasing the size of the transmission pipe.  Now that's what I call big pipe, especially for the time!  I wonder if the shift from clay pipe to concrete pipe had occurred about then?

The adverse consequence of this new dam was that it effectively blocked salmon spawning on a prime 17 mile segment of the river further upstream.  Correcting this and providing fish passage upstream has been one of the early priority salmon restoration projects in the Puget Sound region.  Quoting from Seattle Public Utilities:

"The construction of Landsburg fish passage facilities at the dam and aqueduct crossing were completed in 2003. The facilities are comprised of four primary components:

1. A full channel, boulder/chute fishway downstream of the aqueduct crossing to provide easy passage over the aqueduct and improved habitat conditions

2. Fish ladder and sorting facility at the diversion dam,

3. Tip-out downstream passage gate to provide safe passage for downstream migrating fish, and

4. Special screens on the municipal water intake to route downstream migrating fish away from the municipal water intake and safely back into the river.

The numbers of fish passing above the dam have generally increased since construction of the passage facilities. Early monitoring suggests that fish are performing well in this new habitat and recolonization is progressing well."

If you have an opportunity, be sure to visit Landsburg where you can connect with the beginning of the Cedar River Trail that can take you all the way to Renton and Lake Washington.  We have logged many a mile on this trail and consider it one of our funner jogging and biking trails.  The many river crossings also make it a great place to go if you want to observe fall Sockeye salmon runs.  Enjoy.

Railroad Avenue In The Snow

The above photo is courtesy of Ken Jensen and the Black Diamond History facebook page.  For more information about this photo and much more interesting history, follow the above link.

Coal, Clay, Cinnabar or Timber - Who Really Was King in the Late 1800's?

The answer may well surprise you.  None of the above?  How about HOPS?  Though definitive data is lacking, hops were all the craze during this period.  In the 1880's and 1890's, the Green River valley and much of King and Pierce counties were in the grip of a hops craze - the first crop to bring a measure of real wealth and prosperity to our area.  A hop blight in England and elsewhere in Europe drove hop prices through the roof and a new crop took root here.  Well known settlers such as Ezra Meeker made their wealth growing hops.  In 1882, King County farmers cultivated 200 acres that yielded 300,000 pounds of hops.  According to HistoryLink.org, the crop that year sold for $180,000 with expenses totaling a mere $30,000.  Now that's a profit margin that I can relate to!
Hop kiln photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, BOY23, circa 1889, photo taken in the Kent, Auburn, Puyallup Valley

Farmers rapidly converted their land to hop fields and by 1890 more than 9,000,000 pounds were harvested and King County supplied more hops than any other county in the State.  In a good year, farmers could expect to earn $400 or more per acre - a huge sum at the time.
Photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, LAR 033, circa 1893

Hop pickers included whites, Japanese and Chinese but most were Native Americans who came to the Valley by the thousands from around Puget Sound.  The above picture shows a Native American harvest crew. I am told that hop harvesting represented the first real cash commerce between the tribes and new settlers.  Each of the hop boxes as shown above when filled would contain about 100 lbs of hops.  An experienced hop picker could earn as much as $3.00 per day during the August/September harvest period, perhaps explaining why so many Native Americans participated at the time.  Following is another picture showing the baskets used by pickers and the family affair that harvest time created.
Photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, HES327, circa 1890-1893

Whole tribes at the time would make the migration to the area as shown by the following picture of a group of Quieleute tribal members.  The Quieleute, whose small reservation lies on the west coast of the Olympic Peninsula traveled all the way to Puget Sound to pick hops during the autumn harvest.  A fishing and seafaring people, they relied on wages from seasonal labor to purchase necessities for their families.
Photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, SHS 19, 061, circa 1904

Unfortunately, as we saw with so many natural resource industries at the time, their boom times could be short lived. An infestation of lice beginning in 1891 began to take its toll and early growers such a Ezra Meeker exited the business - well after he had pocketed a fortune.  Others continued but harvest levels declined.

To this day, Washington State remains the number one grower of hops in the U.S. and number two in the world behind only Germany.  Virtually all hop production today takes place in the Yakima Valley, though having grown up in the Puyallup Valley I still remember seeing hops growing in the Alderton area between Sumner and Orting even then.  Perhaps that explains my continuing fascination with this crop - and a taste for beer.

If hops were not king of the hill during this period, they certainly had their day and left an impressive footprint in the history of our region.

 

More Adventures Hiking Into The Gorge Along The Green

It's after 10 pm and well past my bedtime following our open community forum but couldn't resist posting a couple of photos from my hike last weekend into the gorge.  The big hole you see is an old mine entrance about where the Kummer mine was located decades ago.  This area is incredibly beautiful!

Notice the Kyaker near the hole.

This site seemed so weird.  The river at this point divides into two distinct paths.  The upper area just flowed gently, divided by a rocky shoal that separarated it from the lower and much deeper and bigger flow area near the opposite shore.  What made it so unusual was that the farther channel was at least a couple of feet lower in elevation than the upper area.  To catch the current, the kyakers obviously stayed in the deep and big flow channel.

More on this hike and area in future posts.

Bunkers At Mine B In Black Diamond - Circa 1915

Photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, Image no. 1978.65.85.38, circa 1915

Mine B in Black Diamond apparently operated between 1911 and 1914 on what was known as the Franklin series No. 13 coal seam, which was located stratigraphically below the McKay seam and west of the larger Mine 11.  Mine B had a maximum depth of 450 feet and also would appear to have a pretty short life for all of the investment in infrastructure required.  How could you make money in this business with such a short life-span?  I'm also waiting to find a photo from this period where we see clear blue sky.

And can you guess what natural resource investment at the time delivered the highest returns - coal, clay, cinnabar or ???????  The answer in a future post.

Black Diamond Mines Superintendent Home - Circa 1915

Photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, image No. 1978-6585.32, circa 1915

The above picture taken from a Pacific Coast Coal Company photographic album shows what it was like to be a superintendent of mines during the early 1900's.  Pretty spacious accomodations, at least in a comparative sense.  A continuing unanswered question for me is why the roof design of the time.  Small flat area on top and then gently sloping.  What was the functional value of this design that we can still see today in historic areas of our community?  Did they even have attics?

Another Adventure Hike - State DNR Land Along The Green River

With sunshine on Sunday, staying home was not an option.  I took a couple of hikes yesterday and the first of these is an old campground on land owned by the State Dept. of Natural Resources (DNR).  Apparently this site was once an area where DNR maintained camping sites, but no more.  To get there, follow SR169 south toward's Enumclaw.  After crossing the bridge over the gorge, you will see three access areas toward your right.  The first is a paved sliding gate entrance to residential areas.  The second is a yellow gate to Palmer Coking Coal Land and third you will see a blue gate to DNR land on your right.  Take this blue gate exit on your right and follow the trail.

Lots of big cottonwood and mostly desiduaous trees which have lost their leaves by now.  The trail is only about 1/2 mile (1 mile round trip) and serves as an arc that eventually connects Hyw 169 at two points.  Given the beautiful day, great to get out here in sunshine and enjoy the natural beauty.  Probably an even better hike in the summer when the trail is a little less muddy and all of the alder and cottonwood trees have their leaves.  Get out there and enjoy the sandstone cliffs!

Anybody know what these mushrooms are?  Are they edible?

 

Taylor Mountain - Great Winter Hike

Photo taken Dec. 31, 2011 near the top of Taylor Mountain

Looking for a fun hike this winter?  I recommend that you head to the Taylor Mountain Forest owned by King County.  Acquired in 1997 apparently just after the site was logged, the forest consists of 1,822 acres, includes trails extending approximately 30 miles and is available for equestrian, hiking and mountain biking use.  Trail access is very close - just 10 miles from our home and easy to find at the intersection of the Issaquah-Hobart road and Hwy 18.  A map of trails can be  downloaded at the King County Map site.  Kudos to King County for having such good information readily available to us (more on this in later posts as the amount of valuable information provided by King County re natural areas and parks is exceptional).

We took the hike to Holder Ridge and the loop up and around Holder Knob - a round trip of 5.1 miles with about 500 feet of elevation gain to the top. 

Because the elevation at the peak is just 1,000 feet, the trails should be accessible through most of the winter.  Do wear boots as you will need to navigate around a few muddy patches.  The trails are fun and the views of Mt. Rainier and the valley are wonderful.  Highly recommended and close to home.

Lot's of beautiful cedar trees along the way.

A view of  the valley and Judy.  We could see all the way southwest to Tacoma including plumes from the pulp mill and northwest for a great view of the Olympics - and this on a cloudy day.  One curiosity - many of the trees replanted after the harvest were cedar in addition to Douglas fir, even in areas that were not particularly wet.  I'm not sure that you would find this in private tree farms.  I wonder what the thinking here was.  Forest production was apparently not the only criteria.

A view of Holder Creek near the trailhead.  Go discover!

Taylor - A Mining Town Condemned

Photo courtesy of University of Washington libraries, Asahel Curtis Collection CUR788, circa 1910

In earlier posts re the Denny Renton Clay & Coal Plant, the Kummer Mine and the Johnson Clay Mine, we focused on the role that clay mining and manufacturing played in the early history of our region.  Add Taylor to the list.  Thanks to an extension of the Columbia and Puget Sound Railroad from Maple Valley, through Hobart and then on to what became known as Taylor, a new town was born.  Taylor apparently was a company town originally owned by a Scotsman named Sam Galloway who discovered deposits of coal and clay around 1892.  As with the mine at Kummer, Galloway eventually sold out (for the big sum of $64,000) to what became known as the Denny-Renton Clay and Coal Company. Bricks manufactured here played an important role in the reconstruction of Seattle following the disasterous fire of 1889.

From what we know, Taylor's population rose to nearly 1,000 by 1900 with 135 men working in the coal mine that fueled the kilns for the clay products.  High quality clay was also mined here and served as the basic raw material for the manufacture of bricks.  From what I am told, the coal was not of "saleable" quality but did serve to fire the ovens that produced the brick and other clay products.  According to an article in the Maple Valley Reporter by Barb Nilson, the first generation  population consisted of "250 Americans, 80 Italians, 53 English, 37 Finnish, 13 Polish, 16 Slovakians, 36 Slovanians, 11 Swedish, 11 Welsh, 6 Russians, 2 Scotch, 2 Lithuanians and a Letish.  In the 1920's, English as a Second Language was being taught in the school in Taylor."

Photo courtesy of University of Washington Libraries, Asahel Curtis Collection CUR787, Circa 1910

Notice the company housing in the photo above top right. 

In March 1927, a company from California called Gladding, McBean & Co. purchased all of the Denny-Renton properties including Kummer, Denny-Renton and Taylor.  No doubt, Mr. Denny pocketed quite a bundle, especially since he sold just prior to the stock market collapse of 1929.  Clay mining and products were now big time here and continued well into the 1940's.

So what happened to Taylor to wipe it off the face of the earth?  The Depression of the 1930's no doubt accelerated the process of decline and the town became but a remnant of it's earlier self during this period.  But the real death knell came when the City of Seattle concluded that mining activities were contributing to the pollution of their water supply, now know as the Cedar River Watershed. By the powers vested, the City of Seattle condemned the property and all mining and manufacturing operations ceased.  The town was dismantled in the summer of 1947 and approximately 10 homes were moved to Hobart and Maple Valley. 

So, Taylor is no more - sort of.  In a future post, will take you on a great hike around Taylor Mountain.