Black Diamond NOW

Showshoe Trek to Reflection Lakes

Looking for an opportunity to dust off your snowshoes or rent a pair to explore the trails at Mt. Rainier National Park?  Try the trail from Narada Falls to Reflection Lakes.  For beginners, once you make the moderate climb from the falls parking area to the ridge above, it's easy going all the way to Reflection Lakes.  For those with moderate skills who want more distance and challenge, head up along Mazama Ridge to Paradise (2.5 miles one way), or continue past Reflection Lakes down to Louise Lake or even further to Stevens Canyon.  For those seeking much greater challenge, pack your tent and overnight gear in a sled and drag it to your basecamp at Reflection Lakes before making the climb the next morning to several peaks above, including Pinnacle Peak that stands sentinel over the lakes.  Plenty of space on the trails for those on snowshoes and cross country skis too.  With a little sun in the forecast, we headed up this past Saturday.  Spectacular views come early.

There was little sun but just enough to make for clear vistas.  Mt. Rainier and Paradise were fully enshrouded in clouds, making the trail to Reflection Lakes a wise choice on this day.

Lots of people on the trail on a weekend day but it didn't really seem crowded.  So much open space here.

The lakes are frozen and snow covered now but still so pretty. 

Judy and I couldn't have chosen a better way to celebrate our 51st anniversary.  A child bride as you can see.

When you break out lunch, be prepared for the Gray Jays who hang out up here even during the winter seeking to mooch food from visitors.  They are particularly bold right now.

Louise Lake is one of those best kept secrets.  Very large and beautiful even when the clouds over the mountain spoil views of Mt. Rainier.

Wonderful snowshoe/ski trip offering as little or as much challenge as you are up for.

William F. Boyd Photography Collection 1889 - 1891

The William F. Boyd collection maintained by University of Washington Libraries offers some of the best late 1800's images of the pacific northwest.  A transplant from Iowa, Boyd moved to Seattle in 1888 to establish a new studio, just in time for the great Seattle fire of 1889 during which his studio burned down.  His photos of the Seattle fire are some of the best you will find.  He also focused on early logging - a subject near and dear to me.  Following are a couple of his photographs, first showing a log apparently being rolled and not drug along a skid row.  I had never seen this before.  Perhaps these logs were just being staged.

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, BOY87, William F. Boyd photographer, circa 1889

Loggers were willing to try most anything to move these huge monsters.  If you can't drag it, roll it? 

Another important way to move logs to mill was the use of log chutes, filling the chute with water to float logs downhill.

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, BOY76, William F. Boyd photographer, circa 1889

As late as 1920, log chutes were still being used in our area, including a 5 mile long log chute built by the Neukirchen brothers (later owners of the Lake Sawyer sawmill) to move logs from Tiger Mountain to their mill then located about halfway between Issaquah and Hobart. 

 

Big Wheels - Then & Now

Before the introduction of donkey engines, the logging industry had "big wheels".

Photo courtesy Bygone Days of Logging

"Grass burners" such as the team of horses shown above were still needed but big wheels made it a whole lot easier to drag logs along the ground without need for investing in the construction of skid roads.  The principle is simple.  Lift the butt end of several logs off the ground, substantially lightening the load.  Rather than drag just one or two logs at a time, many more could be added to each load.

Today, of course, big wheels are one of those must have toys for young children - pedals replacing the horses.

Electric Donkeys

Steam powered "donkey engines" and high lead logging practices revolutionized the pacific northwest timber industry in the early 1900's.  Plenty of wood fuel available for burning.  Gone in no time were the "grass burners" - teams of oxen and horses.  Wood fueled steam power was also used to turn the saws and move logs and lumber through sawmills.  They provided plenty of raw power to move big logs but also posed big risks of fire.  Wildfires in the woods were common, caused by sparks from steam donkeys and steam locomotives.  Nary an early 1900's sawmill that didn't burn down at least once.  Why not try electric power?

An underground power plant was first constructed at Snoqualmie Falls in the late 1890's followed by a second generator in 1911.  With plenty of cheap power available, the Snoqualmie Falls Lumber Company built the second all electric sawmill in the country in 1917.  They also pioneered the use of electric donkeys.  No more sparks flying.

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, CKK0800, Clark Kinsey photographer, circa 1922

Electric donkeys proved to be no panacea, however.  They provided plenty of power for moving logs but had some serious operating quirks, including a jerky start and stop that was dangerous to those in the vicinity.  And those darn power lines were always getting in the way.  Highly skilled and higher paid operators were also required to operate and maintain the more sophisticated machinery.

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, CKK0804, Clark Kinsey photographer, circa 1922

As a result of these and other factors, electric donkey's never became mainstream, suitable only for unique circumstances like those at Snoqualmie Falls.

For more information about steam donkeys, follow this link to Ravensdale Donkey Engine circa 1911.

Technologies that Stand the Test of Time

The pace of technological change today is not only fast but seems to be accelerating.  Occasionally, however, we run across equipment and practices that have stood the test of time and are still in wide use today - and not just by troglodytes.  Rotary snow blowers used by railroads to keep tracks clear of snow are but one small example (Snow Blowers to the Rescue).  Reef net fishing equipment and  practices used by native americans in Puget Sound long before white settlers arrived is another good example.  Although better materials  have improved efficiency, basic methods remain the same.

What is reef net fishing?  According to the Department of Fish and Wildlife, reef net fishing is a technique for "selective fishing" where unwanted bycatch are avoided altogether or able to be released alive and unharmed.  Reef nets do not gill or surround salmon with a net.  Instead, they count on natural or man made structures to lead the salmon into a shallow laid net which is then lifted and the fish spilled into holding pens.  Unwanted fish can be released unharmed.  Mortality and bycatch are lower using reef nets than any other technique or equipment available today.  Following are several photos showing reef netters in action during the 1940's.

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, NA1937, Erna Gunther photographer, circa 1940

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, CUR1659, Asahel Curtis photographer, circa 1940

Seeing fishermen standing high above their nets on the bow of their boats is signature reef net fishing.  Today, reef netting looks pretty much the same.

Photo courtesy Department of Fish and Wildlife

Reef nets are most often used today in north Puget Sound targeting sockeye and pink salmon during summer months and coho and chum salmon during the fall.

 

 

Dam It

Recent publicity about full reservoirs and overflowing dams piqued my interest in how the dams in our state are holding up   How many dams do we have and where are they?  What safety risks do they pose.  As it turns out, the answer to these and many other dam questions in the state are now are now available thanks to an updated report prepared last fall by the state Department of Ecology.  Would you believe that our state as 1,189 dams with the biggest share located right here in King County?

Under state law, DOE is responsible for regulating dams that capture and store at  least 10 acre feet (about 3.2 million gallons) of water or watery materials such as mine tailings, sewage and manure waste.  Most are privately owned and not used for hydroelectric power generation.

I guess it should be no surprise that recreation and irrigation top the list of dam uses.  The number of dams being used for environment protection such as water quality maintenance, flood control, stormwater management and fish and wildlife is for me a surprise totaling nearly 30% of all dams.

As we can see in Figure 6, the vast majority of dams do not pose a high risk to our state population, but we do have a few monsters with the Howard Hanson Dam and reservoir on the upper Green River being closest to us here in Black Diamond.  Though the reservoir has a surface area of over 20,000 acres, the dam height is just 235 feet, nothing like the scenes we see of the overflowing Oroville dam in CA.  Reservoir storage capacity at the Howard Hanson dam is 136,700 ace feet of water.  For comparison, the Hiram Chittenden Locks, Dam and Lake Washington Ship Canal is much larger with a capacity of over 458,000 acre feet right in the middle of a dense population center. 

Do we have dams in Black Diamond?  Yes and I'm not counting the City Council.  We have two regulated dams in the city and one nearby in Ravensdale.

Name of Dam                                                                            Owner                                       Crest Length            Surface Area            Dam  Height        Max. Storage

Black Diamond Aerated Lagoon (Rock Creek)                    City of Black Diamond                           400 ft                      12.0 acres                    14 ft                    15 acre ft.

Lake Sawyer Outlet Weir                                                            Private                                              94 ft                     697.0 acres                    10 ft               1,116 acre ft.

Ravensdale Pit                                                                      King County DNR                              2,950 ft                      17.0 acres                    18 ft                  165 acre ft.

Looking at a google map of the Ravensdale area, I was unable to locate the Ravensdale Pit dam.  Is it related to an old mining pit along Rock Creek or perhaps the Reserve Silica mine?

Two years ago, we were able to have the Lake Sawyer Outlet Weir inspected for structural integrity and the weir got a clean bill of health.  For more info about the weir, ownership and maintenance, follow this link to one of my earlier posts Lake Sawyer Weir - Structural Analysis.

 

Snowshoe Trek to Suntop

Despite our many overcast and rainy days during winter months in the northwest, we do have sunny days too.  I am blessed to have the scheduling flexibility to take advantage when the sun shines, so off to Suntop I went this past Monday.  For those not familiar, Suntop is an old fire lookout located east of Greenwater.  The trailhead is located at a Sno Park maintained by the U.S. Forest Service and you will need a special Sno Park Pass to park here.  You can purchase them at Wapiti Woolies in Greenwater on your way up.  Put on your snowshoes.  5 1/2 miles and 3,050 feet of elevation gain will get you to the top (11 miles roundtrip).  Lot's of snow this year.

Virtually all signs of people activity on the way up are in the first 1 to 2 miles.  After that, you may find yourself needing to break trail.  You can see my trail in the above photo as I neared the lookout.  This makes it quite a workout.  You also need to exercise caution and stay away from cornices that build up like the one you see above.   These are what start avalanches on steep slopes.

Normally you have to climb up stairs to the lookout, but not now.  As always, I found the views to be spectacular, particularly at sunset.

The cornice in this photo was pretty crusty and wind blown.  At this time of year, the sun sets fairly close to the mountain and you can capture both in one shot using a 24mm lens.  Later in the summer, you will need to stich several photos together providing a panorama.

So many neat views.  The photo that follows is my favorite from this trip.

One challenge, though, if you want to take sunset pics up here is that after the sun sets, it get's dark and you will need a headlamp to find your way down.  I did hear some Fox or Wolf sounds - a little spooky but no worries.  To find the trailhead, take Highway 410 east of Enumclaw past Greenwater.  Look for a sign for FS Road 73 on your right.  Turn here and cross the bridge.  Continue along and you will run into the Sno Park.  The logging road gate is locked and this is where you begin.  Follow the road/trail to the left up FS 7315 and this will lead you to Suntop.  Snow all the way.

 

Big Logs - Big Saws

I marvel at the size of logs that early loggers were able to fell, buck and transport to a sawmill.  But how would a mill saw such monsters?  Big Saws!

Photo courtesy Bygone Era of Logging

Just seeing the size of this circular saw blade scares the heck out of me.  After my own recent "incident" with a circular saw, yikes - I can just feel it.  Could easily cut a mill worker in half. No safety protection.  Imagine what would happen if this blade struck a metal spike somehow left lodged in a log.  But apparently where there is a will, there is a way.

Technology and Growth of the PNW Fishing Industry

While the railroads and technological innovations such as the donkey engine helped to transform Washington's timber industry from a small time player ranked just 36th in the U.S. into the giant it became, so too did railroads and technology transform our region's fishing industry.  According to the Center for the Study of the Pacific Northwest (CSPN), salmon harvests in Puget Sound literally skyrocketed:

Puget Sound Salmon Pack (Measured in Cases)

1877                     5,000

1895                 100,000

1901              1,000,000  

1913              2,583,000

Canneries became big business with salmon hungry markets in the east conveniently served by the railroads. CSPN identifies three technologies that were key to fishing industry growth.

First - Development of the internal combustion engine that enabled fishing boats to travel further in their pursuit of salmon.

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, Pacific Fisheries Yearbook, circa 1919

In a short period, the fishing industry went from sail power, to coal fired steam power and then on to crude oil - gas - diesel power.

Second - The invention in 1902 of the so-called "Iron Chink" that mechanized fish butchering in canneries, transforming it from a hand process done by Chinese immigrants to a faster mechanical process, substantially increasing cannery capacity.

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, shs16233, Asahel Curtis photographer, circa 1905

A classic early 20th century case of automation displacing a workforce, in this case Chinese laborers.

Third - Hatcheries.  Optimism about the potential for salmon hatcheries to prevent overfishing if not increase the supply of salmon gave rise to dramatically increased harvest levels.  As we know, however, hatcheries proved to be no panacea.

I would add a Fourth factor - increased industry scale led to further decreases in cost.  For example American Can Company in Seattle operated a dedicated "repair launch" to service the growing fishing fleet wherever they were fishing and thus increase fleet efficiency.

Photo courtesy University of Washington Libraries, Pacific Fisheries Yearbook, circa 1915

I'm not sure there is a happy ending to this story.  Today we have many fewer fish, a much reduced fleet of fishing vessels and they must go much further out.  Perhaps we can at least hope that a level of stability in fish stocks has now been reached and our great grandchildren will be able to enjoy a salmon dinner much as we do.

 

 

Ready for a 44 Mile Bike Ride?

Black Diamond is blessed to have miles and miles of bike trails both in town and in the 2,000+ acres of Black Diamond Open Space that surround us.  What more could we want?  If you are inclined to ride the Seattle to Portland (STP) road race scheduled for July 16 this year, it's already time to be training.  Riding mountain bike trails is good, but the STP is over 200 miles on pavement requiring the use of different muscles, butt time and riding skills.  Have we got the training route for you!

Although the Seattle Bicycle Touring Club put this map together nearly 10 years ago, the route shown above remains popular today.  We often see bikes stacked up at the Black Diamond Bakery taking advantage of the bakery's prime rest stop designation.  Even in February, despite the cold weather, we see plenty of hard core biking enthusiasts on the road during weekends.  If you don't have the time or fitness level for 44 miles, riding the course in segments is great fun and will provide a good workout. 

As we pass bikers on the road, be sure to yield, giving them 3 feet of space.  It's the law.

Image courtesy Cascade Bicycle Club

 

Crib Trestles & Lincoln Logs

In the timber rich but hilly terrain of the pacific northwest, building railroads posed big challenges.  To maintain any sort of reasonable grade required lots of bridges.  Though "crib trestles" consumed enormous quantities of timber, they provided a readily available solution for spans needing to be in use for only a few years.  Some got to be rather large structures.

Photo courtesy Bygone Era of Logging, n.d.

Photo courtesy Bygone Era of Logging, circa 1900

During this period, other notched log structures such as log cabins also became popular, using the materials mother nature made bountifully available. 

Need a toy for your children to teach them how to build?  How about giving them small notched logs for Christmas that could be assembled into a building by hand?  John Lloyd Wright, second son of famed architect Frank Lloyd Wright, is credited with inventing toy notched logs in 1916 - 1917.  He was apparently inspired by one of his fathers buildings in Japan that used notched logs to provide a more earthquake proof foundation and formed the Red Square Toy Company in 1918.  A patent for what became known as Lincoln logs was issued in 1920.

Talk about a popular toy that has spanned generations.  Lincoln logs were inducted into the National Toy Hall of Fame in 1999 and are still sold in toy stores today - no electronics included.  Not even an App for cell phones.

Lake Sawyer Mill Co. Logging Railroad

The Neukirchen brothers, builders, owners and operators of the Lake Sawyer Mill Co., were very astute businessmen.  Following their sawmilling experience first in the north cascades, then Issaquah and Tiger Mountain before eventually building the sawmill at Lake Sawyer, they knew that building a mill lakeside had significant advantages - not the least of which were a ready made millpond and timber supply.  However, they had also learned the lesson that eventually timber supply close to the mill would soon be depleted and they would need to reach out farther and farther. At Tiger Mountain, they built a log flume that was 4 miles long to get logs from the woods to their mill.  At Lake Sawyer, they built their own logging railroad. The following graphic shows two narrow gauge logging rail lines serving the mill.

In 1923, the company purchased a significant amount of timberlands from the Northern Pacific Railroad (NP) for the price of $62,000.  This land was located to the southeast of the mill.  The red line tracing southeast from the mill with its multiple tentacles shows the 3 mile narrow gauge rail line they built to supply the mill.  You can still find the old rail bed located behind and west of the Morgan Creek development.  Some time later, a new timber supply base was acquired to the west of the lake and a new log dump was established near what is now the Lake Sawyer Sunrise Resort. 

For shipping lumber products to market, a rail line connection was made to the NP's Stampede Pass mainline with a short rail spur to the north.  Using King County's iMap tool, following is a closer look at the rail beds that remained in 1936 following mill shut down.  The log dump near the mill is also clearly visible here as are 288th and remains of the mill site.

Maps courtesy of Ted Curphey

Any ideas as to why there was a rail line connecting Lake 12 with the coal mines at Ravensdale?

Railroads - "Machines" that Revolutionized the Timber Industry

Between 1860 and 1880, eight out of every ten dollars of manufacturing investment in Washington State was invested in the timber industry.  Enormous trees in dense forests that extended for miles in every direction were a magnet for money.  Yet making money in this business was not easy going with many failures along the way.  As late as 1880, Washington State ranked 36th in the country in timber production.  Then, along came the railroads.  According to the Center for the Study of the Pacific Northwest (CSPN), over the next decade timber output grew by eight fold and by 1890 had risen to fifth in the U.S.  By 1905, our state ranked #1 and continued to maintain this elite status until the 1930's.

Washington Timber Production in Board Feet

1859        77 million

1869        128 million

1879        160 million

1889        1 billion

1904        2 billion

1926        7.5 billion (peak)

It's important to remember just how difficult it was to be a logger during the early days.

Photo courtesy Bygone Era of Logging - Woodworking Ideas, n.d.

How did the railroads spur such phenomenal growth?  According to CSPN, "the railroads were enormous consumers of wood products, using 20-25 percent of the annual timber production between the 1870s and 1900 for railroad ties, bridges, stations, fences, and fuel."  Because of land grant parcel ownership, the railroads had a significant stake in maximizing land values and promoting the northwest as a great place to live and work.  More travelers meant more passenger tickets sold to bring a growing workforce west and more timber production for transport to eastern markets.  Lot's of win/wins.

Franklin - A Ghost Town Worth the Hype & Hike

For those who missed the annual tour of the ghost town of Franklin this past Saturday, mark your calendar for Saturday March 4 when the Black Diamond Historical Society will be hosting a second tour.  Despite the inclement weather, a good time was had by all.  Doug Geiger took several pictures and posted them on Facebook..  This one shows Franklin "mayor" Don Mason on his podium describing the town's history, surrounded by some familiar "characters".

Photo courtesy Doug Geiger.  Thanks Doug!

The photo being held up shows the Knights of Pythias Hall and ball diamond in Franklin in 1908.  Following is a clearer view.

Image courtesy Black Diamond Historical Society

As noted in the photo's narrative, sports teams were an important part of the community's social fabric.  On the tour, you'll have the opportunity to walk past where this facility once was.  You'll also be able to see the foundation of what was once Franklin's company store, while walking along the old railroad bed that we see in the photo that follows.

Photo courtesy Museum of History & Industry, 1968.6585.39, circa 1915

Mark your calendars!  Thanks again to the Black Diamond Historical Society for sponsoring the event and for the very able help of so many volunteers.


 

"White Stuff Get's Governor's Son In Trouble"

So went the headline in the Seattle Daily Times, August 2, 1918.  What was this all about?  Believe it or not, Pierre F. Perry, Seattle lawyer and son of the first Governor of the state was charged with hoarding flour in violation of the Food Laws.  According to the newspaper, “Ferry was the first man to be arrested in Seattle on a charge of food hoarding. He was taken in custody early last month when federal officers found more than 600 pounds of flour behind a sofa in the maid’s room on the third floor of the Ferry residence, and subsequently he was indicted by the grand jury.”

Image and story courtesy Washington State Library blog Between the Lines

Ferry, who was a prominent Seattle lawyer at the time, entered a plea of nolle contendere and was fined $350 for the offense of hoarding food.  Believe it or not, this is a true story.  As the country girded for entry into WWI, Congress passed the Food and Fuel Act in 1917 with the intent of conserving scarce resources.  To say the least, the act was not popular with farmers.  Yet following the end of hostilities, President Woodrow Wilson asked for an extension and expansion of the Act to also include clothing.  Concerned about escalating prices, Congress obliged and the Act was extended with increased penalties for hoarding.  Why in the world Ferry would have 600 lbs of flour is open to question, though speculation in a time of severe inflationary pressures seems likely - then known as profiteering.   Hmmmm - sounds like Wall Street.

Lake Sawyer Circa 1936

For those interested in history and land use, 1936 is a memorable year.  It marks the beginning of intensified mapping of King County, including the use of aerial photography.  We don't need to wonder what Lake Sawyer was like back then, we can see it.  King county now makes these digital images available to us online using their iMap tool.  Following is an overview of Lake Sawyer as it was in 1936.

To the east, we can see the old Columbia & Puget Sound rail line that once served the coal mines of Black Diamond and Franklin - now a trail that many of enjoy often.  Further to the east is the Maple Valley Highway, Ravensdale Black Diamond Road and Lake 12.  288th is at the top and the Lake Sawyer - Black Diamond road to the west.  The two main tributaries into the lake are also clearly visible - Rock Creek and Ravensdale Creek.  Notice how small and shallow Frog Pond (aka Frog Lake) was.  This was also pre-dredging of the south end of the lake (now Lake Sawyer Park) and what is commonly referred to as The Boot to the northwest.  Although the Lake Sawyer sawmill shuttered its doors just a few years before these aerial photos were taken, there are plenty of signs of the mill's legacy, including the log dump by the islands and cleared plant area to the northeast of the lake.  One particularly striking note for me is how much clear cutting occurred.  Following is a closer look at the south end of the lake.

As residents of the lake and Black Diamond, we are blessed that Lake Sawyer today remains such a great place.